A Time-Honored Tradition
Michael Friedberg
07.04.2008
Mechanical
watches are products of their heritage and pay homage to that lineage.
If watches can have a soul, it is their legacy that is its core.
Yet,
surprisingly, only a small handful of watch companies fully recognize
this truth. Certainly, they all produce watches with elements derived
from history. All industrial designs evolve from precedents. For more
than a century, the Swiss lever escapement has been the basic
structural component common to almost all mechanical watches. As are
many details: from the use of numerals to the shapes of hands based on
19th century designs.
While any search for new techniques and new designs is desirable, I
would maintain that should not be done by dismissing history. Leaving
tradition behind is unfortunate, because it dismisses any value to
universal principles, all of which have been proven over time.
Innovation is essential, but it should exist within a context to have
meaning.
Fortunately, the very best watch companies not only understand
tradition but also embrace it as an integral part of their product
line. Rather than invent history, there is an embedded understanding of
the past that is communicated to the here and now. This, in turn,
produces a product that will last more than one lifetime. It does not
minimize innovation, but rather looks at it as part of a continuum.
Of the few watch companies that truly respect, understand and
perpetuate their heritage, IWC stands front and center. Its history is
represented in every watch IWC produces. Watch collectors who do not
understand the value of heritage deny themselves a true pleasure by
missing something essential. To appreciate fully IWC watches means to
comprehend their tradition.
For the first half-century of existence, IWC was primarily a pocket
watch company. Those watches were diverse but had a defining, if not
singular, quality. They were manufactured by IWC and highly engineered.
They represented "Probus Scafusia": good, solid, basic and honest
craftsmanship direct from Schaffhausen.
From that foundation, IWC produced wristwatches that turned out to
be iconic examples over its second half-century. They stood for more
than simply being well-made mechanical timekeeping devices worn on a
wrist instead of in a pocket. They were all produced before the age of
marketing, as we all know it today, and there was no intent to produce
any iconic model, let alone a cult watch. These models just evolved,
and it is only in the past few decades that their greatness has been
fully recognized.
First
came the genre of pilot's watches. For more than seven decades, IWC has
always produced remarkable watches for aviators. In the 1930s, it
produced a "special watch for aviators" that subsequently has been
called the Mark 9. Then in 1940, using a modified pocket watch
movement, IWC produced its now famous oversized B-Uhr or navigator's
watch for the German Air Force. IWC also produced the legendary Mark 11
watch in the late 1940s and, in the following decades, the company made
those watches for the Royal Air Force and other Commonwealth militaries.
IWC's pilot watches are all icons and highly collectible. They are
all basic watches -no frills and no complications. As "tool watches",
they represent IWC's illustrious history. They stand for uncompromising
engineering and they stand for global adventure. And today they are
highly sought rarities by collectors throughout the world.
In
the late 1930s, IWC started to produce another watch which subsequently
has become an icon: the Portuguese. This watch used an actual pocket
watch movement housed in a wristwatch case. Oversized for its time,
with the engineering and accuracy of a pocket watch, this model today
has a huge collectors' demand. A true oversized watch, this model
spawned an entire design generation of other models by IWC from 1993 to
today. With only 674 original Portuguese watches identified today,
based on the momentary status of research, the vintage model is
considered by many collectors to be the epitome of their collection.
Likewise,
IWC's 1955 introduction of the Ingenieur produced what now is a third
icon. This watch is IWC. It was developed as a synthesis of the
antimagnetic Pilot's Watch with IWC's then relatively new automatic
movement. If watches could talk, this one would speak IWC. Highly
engineered and with the innovative Pellaton winding system. Basic.
Functional. Almost bullet-proof. This watch has withstood the test of
time and in various versions has prospered for more than 50 years. Like
vintage Pilot's Watches and vintage Portuguese watches, the original
Ingenieur has earned its place as a legend.
In
the 1960s, still another legend was born, but like the others it is
doubtful that IWC knew it then. That watch was the Ref. 812 Aquatimer
Automatic from 1967. While not the world's first diving watch, it has
become a classic in its own right. It did not own a fancy design,
especially when compared to some of the gaudy diving watches of the
era. However, its classic design, including its rotating inner bezel
with a second crown, has evolved until today. Now, justifiably the
price of a prime vintage example has soared.
In
the late 1960s the Swiss watch industry also wanted to break away from
classic round watch design. It was the Age of Aquarius, of the Beatles
and bell bottom trousers. New designs evolved, aesthetically and
mechanically. The revolutionary new Beta-21 quartz movement, based on
the first quartz prototype watch movement developed in 1962-1966 by a
Swiss research group, was introduced by IWC and other companies in
1969. IWC then used the movement in its then-new Da Vinci model. That
radical design, like the completely novel movement, represented still
another benchmark.
But the invention of quartz-power almost buried the Swiss mechanical
watch industry. IWC pondered what to do, and for a while considered
becoming a specialty mechanical pocket watch manufacturer. It produced
several complicated pocket watches, but on the whole they did not sell
in volume. One day, IWC's chief watchmaker at the time, Kurt Klaus, and
IWC's designer from the 1980s, Hano Burtscher, were discussing one
pocket watch model, Ref. 5250 which had a moon phase function. With a
few swift lines drawn on a cocktail napkin in 1984, that model was
converted into a wristwatch. The new model was the Ref. 5251, the now
famous Portofino Moonphase.
The
Portofino moonphase was a huge wristwatch for its time, at 46 mm in
diameter. Most would think that it didn't sell well due to its large
size and commensurate price. But that also meant few were produced, and
today, it has become a collector's rarity. It jump-started the entire
Portofino line at IWC which has grown and prospered for two decades.
With hindsight, this rare model from 1984 might have been as much of
the precursor of today's large watch trend as the original Portuguese,
and the revival of the Portuguese in 1993.
It is noteworthy that the Portofino Moonphase was a wristwatch with
a pocket watch movement. It has evolved to a legend, just like two
other key models by IWC that were wristwatches with pocket watch
movements: the original B-Uhr, or Big Pilot's Watch, from 1940 and the
original Portuguese. None of these was an invented large watch, with a
small movement in a large case. Rather, all emanate from IWC's history
as a pocket watch manufacturer.
All six models of these legendary watches were different, but all
have for more in common than the name "IWC". They were produced
originally over a span of five decades and none was developed, designed
or marketed to become a cult watch. They all varied in size, in
purpose, in movements and dial design. Yet, they all were Probus
Scafusia through and through. They evolved from a pre-eminent pocket
watch tradition: a tradition of highly-tooled, well-smithed fine
engineering.
Perhaps with the understandable exception of the Da Vinci, they all
represented design for the primary sake of function. It was almost
Bauhaus design, but more properly Schaffhausen design. Plus
Schaffhausen implementation. All stood, without a doubt, for the
exceptional company that represents the engineers of watchmaking.
For collectors, assembling a collection of these vintage models is
no easy task. These are icons and rare. Demand has ramped up
immeasurably over the past decade, and these models, when then can be
found, can be extraordinarily expensive. Few are pristine and
authenticity can sometimes be an issue, as can service history. While
old parts generally exist, watches from 70 years ago, or even a few
decades less, frequently need repairs which can also be costly and
time-consuming.
It is within this context that IWC celebrates its 140th anniversary
in 2008. It is celebrating its watches and, in particular, six of its
most iconic models. IWC has done so by once again resolving to keep
time with the past. If a sense of values means to understand what truly
matters, then the classics in any fine endeavor are just that. The
watches that survive the test of time, and for all of timekeeping, will
always include these six IWC models.
IWC now has decided to infuse their vintage models with renewed
spirit. The company has created timepieces that pay homage to the past
yet stake out a bold future. These are the original vintage models, but
they are also much more. They show mostly new, larger cases. Within
those cases are contemporary IWC in-house movements. The parts that
move within the cases are not merely restatements of the past, but
rather state of the art. The movements are in-house and totally
contemporary, but they rely on the past. These movements have finishing
and design principles based on IWC's great historical movements. They
are not merely well-made and accurate movements, but also philosophic
statements.
In a sense, this now is a collector's fantasy come true. Take the
best of the past: the rarest, the most interesting, and the clear
icons. And then respect their historical decisive moment by crafting
them for the next age. Make them new, make them exciting, and make them
uniquely "IWC".
This is IWC's noble way to celebrate its history and to respect a
second-to-none tradition. Going back to a celebrated heritage not only
bridges the here and now but also melds the two forever. With a renewed
homage to the best of style and to the finest in watchmaking, IWC
defines its staying power. In making time with tradition, IWC has
traveled through time. It has gone from history to the future.
Happy 140th birthday, IWC!

Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.
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