By the Light of the Moon
Michael Friedberg
07.04.2008
"I like to think that the Moon is there even if I am not looking at it." Albert Einstein
The
Moon and its phases fascinate us all. It is a celestial body that
intrigues us, shrouded in mystery but a scientific phenomenon.
Amazingly, the Moon is 4.5 billion years old and orbits around the
Earth at a distance no closer than 384,467 kilometers. Unlike the
Earth, it has no life form and possesses neither atmosphere nor
magnetic field. Due to the gravity between the Moon and Earth, it pulls
the tides.
Above all, the phases of the Moon bear witness to the passage of
time. Since the Moon reflects the light of the Sun, and the Moon's
position relative to the Earth changes, the angle at which we view the
Moon reflects those light changes. The changes that we see in that
reflected light are the phases of the Moon.
The first phase, the New Moon, occurs when the Moon reflects no
light to Earth. The Moon then evolves to a crescent as it grows or
"waxes" to a First Quarter Moon and then a Half Moon. The Moon then
becomes a Full Moon and afterward becomes smaller or "wanes" to another
crescent until it becomes another unlit New Moon. The completion of the
Moon's phases occurs on approximately a 29.53 day cycle, known as a
synodic month. Technically this cycle, a "lunation", occurs every 29
days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds.
Because of the regularity of this cycle, the phases of the Moon have
been used in astronomy as a form of calendar. In the Western world, the
Moon has given definition to the onset of crop cycles and religious
holidays such as Easter. In fact, Easter is a function of Moon phases:
it is on the first Sunday after the first Full Moon in Spring.
Our fascination with the Moon and its phases goes beyond astronomy
and has become an integral part of horology. Watches, instead of only
showing hours, minutes or seconds, also began showing moon phases,
essentially serving as a calendar function. As early as 1794,
Abraham-Louis Breguet designed a watch with a moon phase indication.
A
moon phase indication uniquely differs from most other indications on a
watch dial. Most other watch indicators are analog: that is, they show
something by analogy or conceptually. A hand points to a number, and in
our mind that number translates to a given point of the day. But the
moon phase indication is graphic and direct: it is intended to depict
the actual Moon. Almost uniquely, it shows an actual image on the watch
dial. In doing so, moon phase watches are more than a testament to
timekeeping, going back to its astronomical origins, but also they are
an artistic statement.
Beyond counting every 29.5 days, the depiction of the phase of the
Moon on a watch dial can be a beguiling image. Sometimes the
representation of the Moon includes a face, and sometimes one that is
smiling. Often the Moon is reflective, with a shimmering metallic coat.
Sometimes it has been placed on an enamel disk and sometimes we see
embedded stars in the celestial sky around the Moon.
Those fanciful and artistic elaborations would not exist if we were
not fascinated with the Moon, as we witness its phases that continually
evolve and diminish. Our fascination has transferred itself from the
Moon itself to moon phase watches. In the past several decades, watches
with that complication have become especially sought after.
In the middle part of the 20th century, when wristwatches surged in
popularity, not many wristwatches produced by any watch company had
moonphase functions. Like the moon itself, interest in this function
has waxed and waned. During that epoch IWC prided itself on being a
premier manufacturer of basic watches: no-nonsense, highly engineered
pieces that kept impeccable time and did so with few frills or
complications. But over the past quarter century IWC has been engaged
in an ongoing romance with moon phase watches.
In
the 1970s, the introduction of inexpensive and highly-accurate watches
with quartz movements radically altered the watch market. Suddenly,
those finely-crafted, well-engineered mechanical movements had
relatively little market appeal. Watch companies went under and the
survivors clung to whatever lifelines they could. In IWC's case, the
proud mechanical watch company thought for a time that it could survive
as a specialty producer of mechanical pocket watches.
Accordingly, as an attempted answer to the quartz revolution in the
late 1970s and early 1980s, IWC produced several models of complicated
mechanical pocket watches. Many carried special complications, even
repeater models and some with a thermometer. Several had a moon phase
indication, which is not a technically difficult mechanism to produce,
but nonetheless results in a special watch. One of those IWC pocket
watch models was the Reference 5250, a basic watch with remarkably
clean styling and, yes, a moon phase.
The
first important moon phase wristwatch from IWC occurred probably by
accident in the early 1980s. In 1982, IWC produced 150 examples of a
new model, Reference 3710. That watch had moon phase, calendar and
chronograph functions. It apparently was IWC's first wristwatch with a
moon phase function and unknowingly became the start of a trend.
At about the same time in the early 1980s, two other developments
affected the history of moon phase wristwatches at IWC. The first is
that pocket watches didn't sell as well as planned, and IWC's designer
at the time, Hano Burtscher, discussed that with a watchmaker named
Kurt Klaus. They talked one night at a bar about converting that moon
phase pocket watch to a wristwatch, simply by adding lugs to the case.
With a few quick sketches on a cocktail napkin, the idea for IWC's
first "in-house" moon phase wristwatch was born. In 1984, that watch
became Ref. 5251 and was later known as the Giant Portofino.
At
about the same time, Kurt Klaus was working on another watch movement.
He had the very innovative idea for a perpetual calendar movement in
which all of the functions would be integrated and set simultaneously
via the crown. After all, our calendar, even with its variances in
length of months, is mathematically predictable. For any given future
date, one can also tell the day and also the accompanying moon phase.
Accordingly, Herr Klaus' revolutionary perpetual calendar movement
would also show the moon phase.
That new movement was not to have any ordinary moon phase
indication. Traditionally, most watch companies used what is called a
59/2 wheel ratio, since that shows a new Moon every 29.5 days and is
relatively close to the "true" 29.53 day moon phase cycle. However, a
29.5 moon phase gearing produces an error of the moon phase being "off"
one day every three years. That traditional 59/2 gearing also was what
IWC used in its Ref. 5250 pocket watch and the Ref. 5251 Portofino Moon
phase.
But
for his new movement - first used in what is known as the Da Vinci
perpetual - Kurt Klaus wanted to achieve even greater accuracy. Because
all date functions were integrated, it would be difficult to correct
the watch calendar, especially only the moon phase indication, every
three years. Consequently, a much more complex gearing was developed
and the new movement showed a new Moon once every 29.53125 days, or
remarkably an error of one day in every 126 years!
No one then knew how a new mechanical perpetual calendar watch might
sell in the mid-1980s, which still was considered the quartz "dark
ages". But the Da Vinci perpetual took off. By the late 1980s, a
growing group of watch collectors embraced such retro-radical watches.
IWC then embraced moon phase indications on many models. All of its
perpetual calendar models used them, since IWC had this special
movement module ingeniously developed by Kurt Klaus. Also, many of
IWC's Porsche Design models, from the 1980s and the early 1990s, had
moon phase indications. Some models even had moon phase function added.
For example, the IWC Porsche Design compass watch subsequently had a
second generation version made with a moon phase indication.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, wristwatches with moon phase
dials almost became synonymous with the renaissance of the mechanical
watch. Like the phases of the Moon which wax to a full Moon, the
history of the automatic watch in the latter part of the 20th century
parallels the rebirth of interest in this complication.
It
was within this context that watch collectors rediscovered IWC's
Reference 5251. Originally, the watch only sold in limited quantities:
a 46 mm pocket watch for the wrist, even with pure design and a
fanciful Moon, was too large for the 1980s style. Not many were
produced. But watch collectors then began to understand the importance
of the pocket watch heritage, especially for IWC. Through IWC's
pioneering efforts in the early 1990s, larger watches became especially
popular. Moreover, the Giant Portofino's moon phase function had a
special allure to collectors. It was a simple complication from a
mechanical perspective, but a beautiful one. It was almost uniquely
graphic and a representation of the Moon itself - intertwining science
and art.
Collectors then began to search worldwide for a Giant Portofino.
That watch model, perhaps unwittingly, then rose to become an icon. It
might have been its size. It might have been its rarity or its perfect
design. It might have been its symbolism as a pocket watch, in the
great historical Schaffhausen tradition. But above all else it was
undeniable pull of its moon phase. It was that little window on the
dial with that moon phase that made the watch.
The good news was that collectors understood and appreciated this
special watch with its moon phase. But the more troubling story was
that as demand soared, the price of vintage models soared in the
marketplace. The model became increasingly difficult to obtain.
In
celebration of its 140th anniversary, IWC has solved this problem for
all collectors. It has produced a new Portofino moon phase wristwatch.
It is a new watch but a clear homage to its predecessor. It both honors
and reaffirms a rightful heritage of a company that began making pocket
watches and evolved to making complications. Some of those
complications are simple and some are complex.
But perhaps no one complication is as attractive as the simple one
here that shows the phases of the Moon. The general design of the new
Portofino wristwatch possesses grace in its own right, but it is that
window, with the disc reflecting the phases of the Moon, that makes
this new wristwatch special. The special starry sky was produced by IWC
using "Aventurin", a quartz silicia that has a sparkle. Aventurin is
often used as a gemstone, and fittingly here results in a strikingly
beautiful watch.
This
new watch also solves Dr. Einstein's problem. If he could have owned
it, the Moon would always have been captured for him to see. For all
fortunate collectors who will own one, they will always be able to see
the Moon. Every time they glance at their wrist, they will see history,
art and science all combined in one simple and very beautiful celestial
window.
Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.
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